The rec.skiing.backcountry Frequently Asked Questions list The material in this FAQ is directed to novice backcountry skiers. It contains brief descriptions of the basic ideas and techniques of backcountry skiing, comments on the equipment used during backcountry skiing, and safety concerns related to backcountry travel in the winter. For more detailed information on these topics, the reader should consult the resources presented at the end of this FAQ. This FAQ does not contain equipment reviews. These and available from various other sources, including magazines and this newsgroup. Finally, this FAQ does not contain information on specific ski routes. The bibliography contains a list of guide books, sorted by location, that contain this information. *********************************************************** REALLY IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER STUFF!! ------------------------------------- The rec.skiing.backcountry FAQ is a compendium of questions and answers that frequently appear on rec.skiing.backcountry. Neither the contributors to the FAQ, the posters of the FAQ, nor their employers make any claim whatsoever regarding the accuracy or safety of ANYTHING in the FAQ. Any item that may appear to be offering either medical or legal advice is doing neither. *********************************************************** 1. What is backcountry skiing all about? 2. What are the types of backcountry skiing? 2.1 What is overland ski touring? 2.2 What is mountain ski touring? 2.3 Should I go with AT gear or tele gear? 3. Is backcountry skiing safe? 3.1 How do I prepare for the weather and exposure? 3.2 Are avalanches something to worry about? 3.3 Is it ok to ski by myself? 3.4 What's the injury rate for telemark skiing? 4. What type of skis do I need? 4.1 What the difference between double and single camber skis? 4.2 What are overland touring skis? 4.3 What about telemark skis? 4.4 What are randonee and AT skis? 4.5 Can I use alpine skis for backcountry skiing? 4.6 What are the pros and cons of using epoxy, white glue or nothing on a new mounting job? 4.7 How close can I drill new holes next to old ones? 5. How about the ski boots? 5.0 My feet hurt, what should I do? 5.1 What are overland touring boots? 5.2 What about telemark boots, should I use plastic? 5.3 How should I choose alpine touring boots? 5.4 Can I use my alpine ski boots? 6. What are these different ski bindings? 6.1 What are integral touring bindings? 6.2 Should I use three pin and cable bindings for telemarking? 6.3 What about alpine Touring bindings? 6.4 Do any alpine bindings work? 7. Do I need adjustable ski poles? 7.1 How long should my poles be for overland touring? 7.2 Will my alpine ski pole work? 7.3 Do I need avalanche probe poles? 8. Can I use a snowboard in the backcountry? 8.1 What should I know about snowboards? 8.2 How do I carry a snowboard in the backcountry? 8.3 What are split boards? 8.4 What can I use to climb? 9. What else do I need? 9.1 How do I get uphill? 9.2 Is there safety equipment that I need? 9.3 What should I wear? 9.4 What do I need for winter camping? 9.5 Using backcountry sleds 9.6 What does your checklist look like? 10. How about telemark racing? 11. Where can I get gear? (Web version only) 12. Are there any good books on the subject? 12.1 Skiing technique books 12.2 Periodicals 12.3 Internet Locations 12.4 Guide books 13. Guide services, instruction and organizations (Web version only) 14. Backcountry huts and yurts on the web (Web version only) 15. Some basic physics of skiing. Charter for rec.skiing.backcountry For discussion of backcountry skiing, and backcountry skiing issues including avalanche awareness, avalanche avoidance, trail access, and trail use issues. Discussion of minimum impact skiing, and winter survival techniques would belong in this group. Discussion of equipment for the back country skier might belong in this group however, other groups might be more appropriate for discussion of different types of equipment. Discussion of snow cat, heli-skiing and interconnect adventures belong in this group. Also for discussion of telemark and alpine touring. Note: The RESORT ONLY TELEMARK skiers are welcome to post in this group. Editorial note: The rec.skiing.backcountry FAQ is a work in progress and is maintained by David Eyre. Assistance with the HTML markup and graphics was provided by Shamim Mohamed. So far the emphasis of this FAQ is on mountain skiing. This reflects the interests of the authors and newsgroup, and not an editorial bias. If you have comments on topics that are included or not included, please feel free to write a paragraph or two and it will be included in future versions. The rec.skiing FAQ in rec.skiing.announce contains more skiing related material. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 01: What is backcountry skiing? 1. What is backcountry skiing? That's a tough one, even the readers of this group have argued over what defines backcountry skiing. However, a reasonable definition may be that backcountry skiing is the sport (and art) of skiing in places and terrain that have not been altered by people, and away from snow that has been groomed for skiing. While many people would argue about what defines backcountry skiing, not many would have trouble answering a better question. Why do people backcountry ski? Simply because its fun. Backcountry skiing is one of the most relaxing, pleasant and rewarding activities of our lives. We enjoy the terrain we travel through, and we enjoy the solitude that a little effort will bring. We enjoy the company of our companions, and we find the skiing to be unmatched in quality. What more could a skier ask for? ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 02: Are there different types of backcountry skiing? 2. What are the types of backcountry skiing? There are basically two types of backcountry skiing. One approximates cross-country skiing while the other more closely approximates alpine skiing. However, the lines between these two activities are very blurred, and on any given ski tour, you could easily participate in both types. 2.1 What is overland ski touring? Overland ski touring is the cross-country like skiing. The focus here is on covering terrain, seeing the sights and simply being away from more well traveled roads. This type of skiing may take place at just about anywhere patch of ground where there is snow and there aren't any roads. Examples would include a mountain hiking trail, a forest, on rolling hills, or even in the artic regions. 2.2 What is mountain ski touring? Mountain ski touring focuses on climbing mountains and downhill skiing. Your legs, lungs, and stamina replace ski lifts, but again the most important factor is getting away. This type of skiing is usually done in mountainous regions outside of alpine ski resorts. There are two downhill skiing styles of mountain touring. One of the styles is called telemark skiing. The telemark is a type of turn that requires that the heel of the boot not be attached to the ski (thus the terms, free heel skiing). Telemark skiing uses boots and bindings specifically designed to allow this turn. The other style of mountain touring uses "alpine touring equipment ". This equipment is used to execute parallel turns with the boot heel firmly attached to the ski, like standard alpine bindings. There are also two distinct activities that mountain skiers participate in. The first is ski mountaineering, which mountaineering with skis. The use of skis for mountaineering can lead to some excellent skiing, and in some cases simplify the goal of achieving a summit. The second activity is fondly known as yo-yoing. Here the goal is to ski runs. During yo-yoing, a climbing track is typically set once on a given hill, and it is used for a number of ascents, and subsequent descents. 2.3 Should I go with AT gear or tele gear? This is an annual debate on rec.skiing.backcountry. Here are some typical responses to a good downhill skier who wants to start backcountry skiing. From Peter Krystad It all depends on what you value. Some of the time tele has the advantage, other times AT, most of the time it doesn't really matter. Given your background, I would go with the AT gear. There is no way the advantages of tele gear and technique will overcome the time it will take you to get proficient. From Clyde Soles Given your background, I'd go with the AT gear. It has more control, better release functions, tours fine and is a lighter package than comparable tele gear. Cost is slightly higher but in the same ballpark. I know tele fanatics hate hearing this but it's the truth. From David Eyre Since you know how to parallel already, if you were to go out and buy stiff tele boots and a good pair of skis, you could be executing good parallel turns on your tele equipment with a half days practice. Despite all the comments that AT is much easier for accomplished downhill skiers, IMO if you can turn 'em on downhill gear, you can parallel on heavy tele gear too. Then you have the option to learn to tele. From Rick Strimbeck The main advantage of freeheel gear (and one that many seem to be forgetting) is its versatility. If your skiing will involve touring (flat approaches, hut-to-hut skiing, mileage) tele gear should look pretty attractive. Then you've got to look over the gradient from light and skinny (and often more demanding when it comes to doing turns) to heavy and fat (and fun on the downhills). If you're going to go heavy and fat, and you're not specifically interested in learning and using telemark turns, you might as well go AT. It is possible to go medium weight (boots) and fat especially if you stay off the hardpack, which demands the most of a boot. (That's me...) From Mel Mann People have probably given you enough practical advice to make a good decision but IMHO they've been too nice about the other discipline.(None of that rsa spirit here in civilized rsb.) So I'll give you the straight poop that no one else was willing to say ;^)> Telemarkers (my true calling) derive a sense of moral superiority from using a turn that is not only technically impossible but physically painful. Other advantages are: you get to wear funny hats (although boarders have taken over that lately - like everything else in the world), you can buy your ski clothes at Goodwill and they never go out of style, you have an endless source of witty conversation debating the merits of leather vs. plastic boots (you won't believe the boost this gives your social life). The down side is lift guilt. You will have to invent excuses for any day spent riding lifts - you're quads are recovering from the aaaawwwesome climb you did last week, your is injured, you're working on a new manuever (like actually completing a tele turn). You'll know you're succesful when, after zipping some bumps or jumping a cornice you hear compliments from the lift like "you're crazy" and "pinheads suck". From limited observation of AT skiers I would say that the advantages (beside the fact that the technique is, at least theoretically, posssible) is that you can ski 50 degree couloirs in very sketchy snow conditions ala Scott Schmidt et al. The disadvantage is that, if you are even marginally sane, you don't want to ski 50 degree couloirs in very sketchy snow conditions ala Scott Schmidt et al hence you will suffer steepness envy. The desire to emulate your heroes vying with the notion that staying alive is a good thing. This will become even worse when you find that those couloirs have names like "Don't Miss", "Screaming Right Turn", "Comin' Home Sweet Jesus", and the truly terrifying "Early Morning Couloir". As you can see - both techniques have advantages and disadvantages but I think you will find that they have more in common than differences. Namely both of these techniques are usually practiced far from places with decent beer on tap. If you are smart you will spend far more time talking about technique and equipment in a well heated bar (that brews a perky porter or at least a passable pilsner) than out in the cold actually praticing either technique. 2.4 How do I get into ski touring from alpine skiing? From ButtDawg If you are a resort skier interested in getting into backcountry skiing, here's how I'd do it.... Basic Investment: - AT bindings ($200 - $500) - Skins ($40 - $100) - Beater alpine skis ($0 - $100) Use all the rest of your alpine gear, go out on very safe days (avalanche wise) and see if you like it. The pace is much slower, but the quality can be much higher. Intermediate Investment: -AT boots ($200 - $500) -Avalanche transceiver ($225) -Accessories (Pack, shovel, titanium scotch flask, etc) ($100 - $500) Point of no return investment: - BC Skis ($200 - $500) - Adjustable probe poles ($80) - Many, many others ($1,000 to $10,000) ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 03: Backcountry skiing hazards 3. Is backcountry skiing safe? Provided that you i. learn the skills that are needed, and ii. choose ski routes that are appropriate a. for your skill level, and b. for the weather and avalanche conditions on that day, and iii. exercise caution when you make decisions, then yes, backcountry skiing might be safe. Without these skills and without thoughtful decision making, backcountry skiing is not safe. ************************************************** "Nature cannot be fooled." --Richard Phillips Feynman ************************************************** Every year skiers of all abilities are killed. We cannot assure complete safety. You voluntarily partake of this activity by your choice. DO NOT FOOL YOURSELF. The basic skills required for backcountry skiing can be learned in many ways. The possiblities include; 1) hiring a guide, 2) taking a course with one of the numerous schools (such as NOLS, Outward Bound, etc...) that teach outdoor skills, 3) skiing with friends that are experienced backcountry skiers, or 4) taking a course at a college or university that offers outdoor education. The following general rules of thumb for safety are parapharsed from Hanscom and Kelner's book Wasatch Tours. They should be exercised by all backcountry skiers, regardless of experience or ability. a) Consider and prepare for the worst. b) Consider the needs of your body for water, food and warmth. c) Be aware of winter hazards such as weather and avalanches. d) Travel with enough people to rescue or evacuate a person. e) Tell someone where you are going, and when you will return. (Editors note: Thanks to Eugene Miya for helping to clarify this section.) 3.1 How do I prepare for the weather and exposure? Backcountry travel in the winter exposes the skier to potentially severe weather. Travelers should be prepared with enough gear and supplies to safely handle extreme cold, high winds, snow/ice and sudden severe weather changes. Backcountry travelers should also have plans for an emergency due to weather or injury, and should consider how they would survive the night if circumstances forced that upon them. In the Fall of 1996, rsb had a discussion of what people carried with them on backcountry ski tours. The following lists are some of their suggestions. These are not exhaustive lists, and they don't include the obvious such as extra clothing and food, they are just what some people carry with them for emergencies. For a complete list of suggested gear you click here. Andrew McLean Headlamp - so you can keep going. Lighter - so you can start a fire. Space Blanket - can be made into a little shelter Avy Shovel - for digging a snow cave Lowell Skoog Zadarsky tent - It is lighter, more compact, and more versatile than a sleeping bag or bivi sack. You can put three people under one. Steve Cali Candle Lantern - They put out lots of warmth in a shelter Grabber Chemical Hand Warmers - I carry about a half dozen -Klaus Snow saw - for making a snow shelter 3.2 What should I know about avalanches? If you travel in avalanche prone terrain, you should know as much as you possibly can! The reasons why are obvious. In the 1995-96 ski season, avalanches killed 27 people in North America. These people ranged from backcountry novices to a professional ski patrolman working on avalanche control. The avalanches ranged from quite small slides with little power to slides that snapped 100+ year old trees like they were twigs. 3.2.1 Do I have to worry about avalanches? Almost certainly, unless you're sticking to particularly flat terrain. Anywhere where snow accumulates on slopes may well be an avalanche risk, and as a backcountry skier, slopes where snow accumulates are just the sort of places you're likely to be. However, there's a lot of difference between "worry " and "fear". If you make a point of learning about avalanches, as long as you have respect for them and use that knowledge, then you needn't be afraid of them, as you shouldn't end up in one. 3.2.2 What are the consequences of avalanches? This varies from nothing to death, but you cannot assume anything about escape if you're in one. There is no sure way of escaping from an avalanche intact, except by not being caught in the first place, which is what you should concentrate on. 3.2.3 Are avalanches avoidable? Yes, they are, but before you can reliably avoid an avalanche you need to have a reasonable understanding of what causes them and in what conditions you can expect them. Once armed with this knowledge you can make use of multiple sources of information, including maps, weather forecasts, visual and structural inspection and even "6th sense gut feelings" in order to avoid them. Note that nobody knows everything there is to know, so don't try and learn everything at once. Just like learning ski turns, if you build up gradually it's easy, but if you try and emulate Olympic slalom champions on your first run you'll come unstuck. To get the information you need for this, look at Questions 4 & 5... 3.2.4 Where can I find out about avalanches? There are plenty of good sources available, both general and local. For general sources, widely available, see Question 5. Local sources are primarily people-oriented, and represent local knowledge of conditions and tendencies in an area. It is well worth seeking out such information in advance, as it can reveal persistent black spots and good avoidance routes. Areas may publish local avalanche forecasts, which should always be read if available, along with local weather forecasts. If specific mountain forecasts are available, make sure you read them. Make a point of asking other backcountry users in the area their opinions if you feel there is possible danger: the more information you have, the better you can forecast and avoid activity. In mountain areas there are often avalanche professionals who will gladly spend time on lectures to interested groups. If this facility is available, make use of it. Find out if an area has an avalanche service and contact it if it does for information and guidance. Nobody knows all there is about avalanches, and the more information you have, the better your chances of avoiding them. 3.2.5 What resources are widely available? Numerous courses on avalanches and safe backcountry travel are available, and if you are planning backcountry travel, you should take a course. For a list of courses see http://www.csac.org/Education/Courses/ Aside from an avalanche course, the groundwork theory is easiest to pick up by videos or reading, either books or Web sites. Following is a list of various of each. Videos: o Avalanche Awareness: A Question of Balance o Winning the Avalanche Game o Not a Second to Waste o Avalanche Rescue Beacons, a Race Against Time Books: o Avalanche Safety for Climbers and Skiers, Daffern o The Avalanche Book, Armstrong & Williams o Snow Sense: A Guide to Evaluating Snow Avalanche Hazard, Fredston & Fesler o Mountaincraft & Leadership, Langmuir o A Chance in a Million?, Barton & Wright o The Snowy Torrents: Avalanche Accidents in the United States 1980-86. Nick Logan and Dale Atkins. o Ski Safe, Sellar Web sites: o Cyberspace Snow and Avalanche Center o Scottish Avalanche Information Service o Eight Steps to Reducing Your Avalanche Risk o Westwide Avalanche Network 3.2.6 Am I safe with a beacon, probe and shovel? Don't rely on it. The only sure way of being safe is not to get caught. Probes and shovels are for getting other people out, not you. Beacons (radio transceivers for locating buried victims) can be a big help, but they require PRACTICE in their use and though certainly a good idea that could save your life they are not a substitute for avoidance. Don't let safety items like these lull you into a false sense of security by reducing your respect for avalanches. 3.2.7 Do I need to practice forecast and avoidance? Yes. And preferably practice some more afterwards... 3.2.8 Is there anything else I can do? Yes, most avid backcountry skiers in areas with local sources of avalanche prediction will listen to or read their local report on a daily basis, even if they don't plan to ski on that day. By maintaining an avalanche log, either written or mental, you learn about the history of the snow, its current conditions, and future expectations. The lessons learned by season after season of studying the snow will allow you to increase your enjoyment of the mountains. 3.2.9 Is there anything else I can do in the mountains? The following observations can usually be made without risk and suggest when an avalanche is possible. 1. Has there been recent avalanche activity on this slope or another slope similar to it? 2. Have there been recent deposits of snow by wind or precipitation? If its spring, is the slushy snow deeper than the top of your boot? 3. Does the angle of this slope exceed 25 degrees anywhere? Including the slope above and below? 4. Are there signs of any past avalanche activity on this slope? Are there any trees, do the trees have uphill branches, are there any gullys with no trees? If the answer to ALL these questions is no, then a slide on that slope is unlikely but not impossible. If the answer to ANY of these questions is yes, then an avalanche could occur. 3.2.10 Is there a place that I can get beacons at cost? Yes. Its called the EKW fund. Erdme Kuljurgis-Worswick's tragic death in an avalanche in the spring of 1984 alerted the communities of Southwest Colorado to the lack of information available on the subject of winter mountaineering and backcountry travel. Erdme perished in a small avalanche while cross country skiing on relatively non-threatening ground in the San Juan Mountains. Shortly after Erdme's death, the EKW Memorial Mountain Safety Fund, a non-profit educational organization, was created to increase public awareness of avalanches and their potential hazards in the backcountry. Dissemination of information that might prevent injuries and death has always been the primary purpose of the fund. Through donations and fund-raising activities, the EKW Fund is now able to provide free avalanche seminars in southwest Colorado. The avalanche safety seminars focus on avoiding potentially dangerous situations. Free emergency first aid seminars involving cold weather medical problems are also offered. An important aspect of safe winter backcountry travel is safety gear. The Fund determined that the possession and trained use of avalanche rescue equipment was also vitally important to backcountry safety. Avalanche rescue transceivers, collapsable shovels, and ski pole probes are well-known as the basic safety gear for backcountry travel. The EKW Fund makes transceivers and shovels available at wholesale cost to the communities in Colorado. This outfits many who may not be able to afford the necessary equipment with important safety devices needed for safe travel on avalanche terrain. The EKW Fund continues to grow each year, thanks to donations of time and money from concerned people. Contributions take many forms. And each little bit counts to help save maybe another life. Spread the word. The more people who know about the fund, the stronger its message will become. The EKW Fund P. O. Box 300 Ridgway, Colorado 81432 << Editors Note: This is a non-profit service provided by the the friends and family of EKW. PLEASE treat these people with the respect and kindness they richly deserve. Furthermore, if you can afford it, please add a donation to the fund with your purchase. >> 3.2.11 Induction line searches. Your tranceiver works by inductively coupling to the magnetic field created by the transmitting unit. The magnetic field is very directional, radiating from one end of the tranmitting antenna to the other. The basic idea is that you follow the path of one of the magnetic induction lines drawn in the figure on the right. For this reason, you will get a stronger signal when your receiver is oriented parallel to the induction line from the tranmitter (you should already have experienced this during your practices...when you orient the receiver for maximum signal you are orienting along the induction line). Note that quite often the orientation for maximum signal does *not* result in the reciever pointing at the tranmitter. Nonetheless, in an induction line search you align your receiver for maximum signal strength and then proceed in the direction that your receiver is pointing. If the signal strength diminishes you turn 180 degrees and proceed. The signal strength should increase as normal. As you proceed you *constantly* reorient your receiver for maximum signal strength and move in the resulting direction. The result is that you will end up following a curved path that will lead you to the transmitter. Once you get close you will nead to resort to a normal grid search, however by this time you should be on the most sensitive range and therefore the grid is very small. Properly done the inductive search can be very rapid (less moving back and forth) even though the path to the victim is not a straight line. However this method requires more practice to be effective. The induction line method should be replaced by a classical grid search when you are within 2 meters of the victim. Near the victim, the direction of the induction lines change substantially over small distances, making this method of search confusing. Thanks to Glen Baker for this description. 3.3 Is it ok to ski by myself? Solo backcountry skiing is generally not recommended due to weather and avalanche hazards, and the possibility of injury. After having stated the obvious, solo backcountry skiing can be an enormously rewarding experience, but it involves risks that cannot be taken lightly. 3.4 What's the injury rate for telemark skiing? Michael Tuggy has conducted a survey of telemark injuries over the past several years. To see the results click here. An interesting conclusion of the survey is that skiers with plastic boots sustain fewer serious knee injuries than skiers leather boots. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 04: Backcountry skis 4. What type of skis do I need? 4.1 What the difference between double and single camber skis Loosely speaking, the camber of a ski is the amount of bow in the ski, and different amounts of camber are used on skis designed for different purposes. Double camber skis have a large bow, and they are primarily designed for touring in rolling or flat terrain with a kick and glide style. Single camber skis have a smaller bow, and they are designed to ski downhill and turn. To tell if skis are double cambered or single cambered, place the skis bottom to bottom and squeeze. If you can make the bottoms touch in the middle of the ski without much exertion, the skis are probably single cambered. Because these double camber and single camber skis are designed for different types of skiing, many experienced skiers will have at least one pair of each kind of ski. If you can only afford one pair of skis, then you should buy double camber if you plan to use your skis mostly for overland travel and single camber skis if you are skiing in the backcountry skiing for downhill runs. 4.2 What are overland touring skis? Overland touring skis are generally double cambered and are designed to ski in rolling terrain. Waxable and non-waxable versions are available. Generally, the waxable skis perform better when the skier is knowledgeable about the use of wax, but the non-waxed skis are easier to use for inexperienced skiers. Narrow and wide overland touring skis are available. The wide skis are used for overland backcountry skiing in deep snow, while the traditional narrow skis are generally used where a ski track has been set. Narrow skis can still be used to ski in deep backcountry snow as well. Skating ski gear is only appropriate for skiing on a groomed track. The proper length for narrow skis is generally about 10cm longer than the skier is tall. The proper length for wide skis is about 5-10 cm shorter than the skier is tall. Annual ski reviews are available in the magazines such as Backcountry, Backpacker, Couloir, and Cross Country Skier. 4.3 What about telemark skis? Telemark skis are usually single cambered and designed to ski downhill using the telemark turn. Most telemark skis have metal edges and have a relatively soft uniform flex. Different telemark skis are also designed for use in different snow types including powder, hard pack and racing. Beginning telemark skiers should look for a ski with a softer flex, a broad tip and tail and a narrow waist. This ski profile will make learning the turn easier. The proper length for telemark skis depends on the type of ski purchased, but generally a wide single camber skis should be about the height of the skier, a narrow single camber should be about 10 cm longer than the skier is tall, and a double camber ski should be 10 to 20 cm longer than the skier. Annual reviews of telemark skis are available in magazines such as Backcountry, Couloir, and Powder. 4.4 What are randonee and AT skis? Alpine touring skis are generally short, wide and light skis that are designed to ski hard snow with tight turns. They are used for mountain skiing and ski mountaineering where steep slopes and difficult snow conditions will likely be encountered. Models are also available for soft snow conditions. Most alpine touring skis range from 160cm to 190cm in length and are more than 80mm wide in the shovel. Many alpine touring skis weigh 3kg or less (about 2/3 the weight of an alpine ski of equal length). Most alpine touring skis have hole in the tip and a notch in the tail. The notch in the tail is used as a attachment point for climbing skins, and the hole is used build an emergency rescue sled from the skis. Annual reviews of alpine touring skis are available in magazines such as Backcountry and Couloir. 4.4.1 What are those holes for? This has two answers. To see those funny columns of snow coming through when skiing really good powder. To make an emergency rescue sled (requires a shovel, 5 meters of rope and a ski pole.) 4.5 Can I use alpine skis for backcountry skiing? Regular alpine skis have been used by generations of backcountry skiers in the mountains. Many telemark and alpine touring skiers use all mountain alpine skis, and some skiers use alpine equipment exclusively in the backcountry. The biggest disadvantage of alpine skis is that they are heavy to carry up the mountain. To learn more about alpine skis, see the rec.skiing FAQ in rec.skiing.announce. 4.6 What are the pros and cons of using epoxy, white glue or nothing on a new mounting job? It seems that there are as many opinions about how to mount skis as there are people that mount skis. The following opinions are a sample of methods employed by skiers that participate on rsb. From Good Ol' Ed: > > I have used both and prefer epoxy. White glue seems to have a > water base and I have had a number of screws rust in their holes > because of it. It should not take much time at all because you > bon't need much on. From Chris Amrhein: > > I'm inclined to go with a "glue" that doesn't need to lose water > or solvent (like white glue or thinned epoxy). I agree with the > "keep water out" theory as I have had several skis with rusted > screws. Also, I'd be worried about putting solvents (like acetone) > inside a foam core ski. The solvent could dissolve the core. The > advantage of epoxy is it hardens without losing solvent and doesn't > shrink when 'dry'. There are a lot of industrial and marine grade > epoxy compounds that stay liquid for 2 hours after mixed. These > are all a lot better and more moisture resistant than the hardware > store stuff in a tube. You usually have to buy the epoxy in pint > cans so for one or two skis it isn't worth it. From Andrew MacLean: > > If the holes are tight (new), I like to use something like Sealcoat > or ShoeGoo. If they are a little suspect, I'll use white glue > (Elmers). If they are stripped, blown out or just generally suspect, > I'll use an epoxy. For honeycomb skis, I drill, fill the cells with > slow curing epoxy, screw the bindings on and flip them over. From jb: > > As I've said most pros as a rule do not mount bindings with > epoxy. Maybe there are other factors that come into play in > screws ripping out like correct hole size, a good tapping job > (if required), and the screw not being over or under tightened > (torque, eh). This is all that it is required to hold the binding > on, glue just dampens, seals and lubes. A _waterproof_ white glue > correctly applied works just fine. If you do choose to use epoxy on foam core skis, you should cure the glue slowly with the skis upside down. From thomas sperre: > > My experience with epoxy for binding screws is the most likely > explanation that I broke a pair of Evolution Ruby Mountains. These > "unbreakable" skis broke beneath the binding while I was traversing > a mountainside on a cross-country ski tour. Lucky for me, they were > guaranteed to be unbreakable, so I got new ones for free. The sales > rep told me they had been looking into the fracture and the core > had been degraded through aggressive chemicals in epoxy glue. From Steve Strickland: > > The epoxy I'm using says it is for foam core skis. Maybe some > epoxy mixtures are more harmful to foam core skis while others > are not? One thing I know is, most folks are seeming to agree > that epoxy is much better at preventing rip-out than white glue > > Contrary to what I assumed, I think folks are using all different > kinds of epoxy with different mixtures and additives. There is > evidently some epoxy that should not be used on foam core skis, and > certainly some additives that would be harmful to foam core skis. > So when someone says they epoxy the screw holes, it can be a good > thing or a bad thing depending on what epoxy they used and whether > it cured upside down or not. Booker C. Bense wrote: > > You need to be careful with the thickness of epoxy that you > use. I've seen "repairs" that melted the foam core of the > board. > > - - My technique is : > > 1. Use slow cure marine epoxy with some strengthening powder. > > 2. Work in a cool basement ( 50-60 degrees ). > > 3. Dip the screws in epoxy. > > 4. Mount binding. > > 5. Let cure upside down. 4.7 How close can I drill new holes next to old ones? A lot of people ski on used alpine skis. A natural question to ask is how do you remount older skis. From Paul von Boeck: > > In my shop life, which wasn't too long ago, the standard was to > be no closer than one hole width when redrilling. I followed this > rule on two pair of alpine boards that were resurrected for tele > with no problems. If you've got 15mm that should be plenty. From Jeff Wilson: > > I'm no expert at skis but I've been a woodworker for years. IMHO > filling the holes with wooden dowels adds more strength than just > filling with glue and will allow you to drill closer. I agree with > another poster that its best not to get closer than a screw width to > the old hole. Also, if possible, let the plug job cure for a couple > of days before remounting bindings. Glue, and especially epoxy gets > stronger with time. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 05: Backcountry ski boots 5. How about the ski boots? 5.0 My feet hurt, what should I do? First and foremost, consult a knowledgeable boot fitter when you purchase ski boots. Beyond being uncomfortable, poorly fitting ski boots can be dangerous in the backcountry. 5.1 What are overland touring boots? Overland ski touring is somewhat akin to summer hiking, so boots for overland ski touring are quite similar to hiking boots. Fit these boots for comfort and consider warmth when selecting a boot. Most overland touring boots are now equipped with an integral binding system. See the discussion of these bindings systems in the binding section of this FAQ for more details. Anyone care to add/subtract/rewrite this? 5.2 What about telemark boots, should I use plastic? Shortly after the telemark turn was popularized (again)in the 1970's, telemark boots were similar to heavy hiking boots or were converted from old leather downhill ski boots (called Steincomps). Since that time, some telemark boots have remained virtually unchanged from their hiking boot origins, and others have undergone radical transforma- tions. The latter boots include models with a full plastic buckled shell (similar to alpine ski boots), models with an upper plastic cuff that is buckled and a lower laced leather boot, models with a lower plastic shell but are fully laced and models with plastic underneath the leather exterior. There are two big differences between plastic and leather boots. Generally the more plastic a boot has, the better that boot is at controlling the ski during a turn. On the other hand, plastic boots are usually less comfortable and weigh more than their leather counterparts. Most telemark boots are constructed with a 75mm nordic-norm toe that uses a three-pin or cable style binding. Some telemark boots are constructed to use with the NNN-BC (New Nordic Norm - BackCountry) bindings. NNN-BC boots and 75mm toe boots are incompatible with each others bindings. The primary advantage of the NNN-BC system is that the boots are generally lighter than their 75mm counterparts. The 75mm toe is used on most heavy telemark boots designed for downhill skiing. See the binding description in this FAQ for more information on the 75mm vs. NNN-BC binding systems. When deciding which boots to purchase, first and foremost, only buy boots that fit. Second, you must decide how much plastic you need. If your primary backcountry skiing activity is a hike in the mountains, then you should opt for lighter (most likely leather, possibly NNN-BC) boots. If your primary skiing activity is telemarking on steep terrain, then you should opt for the control of stiff boots. Annual reviews of telemark boots are available in magazines such as Backcountry, Couloir, and Powder. 5.3 How should I choose alpine touring boots? Alpine touring boots are constructed with a plastic shell and a removable inner lining. The soles of these boots have a "Vibram" style lug, they are rigid, and they are designed to be used with Alpine Touring bindings only. Some AT boots are designed more for walking comfort while others are designed more for skiing control. A good salesperson that has several models of AT boots should be able to explain the differences. Since AT boots have a rigid sole, a proper fit is critical to have a comfortable boot. AT boots should be fit with more room than alpine boots, particularly in the ball of the foot and the toe box. Yet they should still be snug to prevent blisters. Remember you are going to walk in these things, not just ski in them. Annual reviews of AT boots are available in magazines such as Backcountry, and Couloir. 5.4 Can I use my alpine ski boots? As with alpine skis, alpine boots are regularly used in the backcountry. For an overview of alpine boots, see the rec.skiing FAQ. Generally alpine boots that are comfortable when the buckles are open are best for backcountry skiing because during the ascent many people leave their buckles undone. The two biggest disadvantages of alpine boots are that they are heavy and uncomfortable when walking. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 06: Backcountry ski bindings 6. What are these different ski bindings? 6.1 What are integral touring bindings? There are three major types of integral systems which are mutually incompatible. NNN (New Nordic Norm) is a system in which the three holes in front of the boot toe are replaced by a horizontal metal rod which is locked into the binding by a lever. The heavier-duty NNN-BC (Back Country) system moves the rod under the toes, rather than in front of it, which many find to be more comfortable than either standard NNN or three-pin systems. Both NNN and NNN-BC boots and bindings are made by a variety of companies. The third system is Salomon's Profil system, a version of which is used by most racers. They also make a backcountry version. Profil, like NNN-BC, has the pivot point under the toes rather than in front of the boot. A few other companies make Profil-compatible boots. All three of these systems partially interlock the sole of the boot with the surface of the binding under the foot, reducing or (for the Profil) eliminating the role of the heel plate. You must use a boot compatible with your particular binding type. 6.2 Should I use three pin and cable bindings for telemarking? Telemark bindings are available in two basic design styles, the 75mm Nordic Norm and the NNN-BC. Boots designed for one system are not compatible with the other. The 75mm Nordic Norm telemark bindings are designed to accommodate the large square toe of a telemark boot. Two basic binding types exist. The three pin binding consists of a 75mm toe piece with three vertical pins protruding off of the base and a sturdy metal bale that clamps the boot onto the plate and pins. When using this type of binding, be careful to ensure that the pins are inserted into the holes on the boot toe. The other binding type consists of a 75mm toe piece and a cable that forces the boot forward and into the binding. There are also bindings with both pins and cables. Both binding types are accompanied by a small heel piece design to keep the heel from slipping. Which binding type you use depends on your personal preference and pocketbook. The cable bindings are generally more expensive, but since they don't use pins they are less damaging to the boots. The NNN-BC binding system can also be used for telemark skiing with NNN-BC boots, but generally the NNN-BC system is not available with heavy telemark equipment. Opinions about whether it will be available in this type of equipment and how well it performs are mixed. In addition to the bindings, devices can be purchased which allow the ski to release during a bad crash. The effectiveness and need for these devices is a hotly debated topic, but they may save your knee from a surgeons blade. 6.3 What about alpine Touring bindings? Alpine touring bindings are a hybrid of free heel and alpine bindings. They are designed to be used in one of two modes, climbing and skiing. In the climbing mode AT bindings are free in the heel and hinge at the tip of the boot toe so the heel can lift. AT are also equipped with heel "lifters " which attempt to keep the boot heel and toe level while climbing. In skiing mode, the heel and toe are clamped down on the ski like downhill ski boots and bindings. Most AT bindings have some ability to release during a fall. Models of AT bindings exist that are designed for a particular boot and other models exist that will accept any AT boots. AT bindings should not be used with regular alpine ski boots because the release mechanism is designed to use a Vibram soled boot. 6.4 Do any alpine bindings work? For an overview of alpine gear, see the rec.skiing FAQ. Alpine bindings have improved greatly in the last 20 years, but for backcountry use they still clamp your heel to the ski and so they are not easy to use when hiking. Fortunately for alpine skiers, a recent addition to the spectrum of backcountry gear is a hinged device which fits into alpine bindings and allow alpine skiers to hike with more comfort in their boots, bindings and skis. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 07: Backcountry ski poles 7. Do I need adjustable ski poles? 7.1 How long should my poles be for overland touring? These poles are generally sized to the arm pit of the skier. They are used for locomotion while skiing, so they should be quite stiff. If you plan on skiing in deep soft snow, you should purchase poles with a large basket. 7.2 Will my alpine ski pole work? These poles are generally sized to about the elbow of the skier. They are used mostly for balance (going uphill and downhill) and not as often for locomotion. Most styles will work, and $2 poles from the local thrift shop are not an unreasonable possibility. Beware that the basket on many alpine poles are far too small, and that larger baskets are available. A useful hint: If you have a set of poles that will be only for ski touring, get them about 3 inches longer than the standard alpine length. Then at the standard alpine length (i.e. elbow height), wrap each pole with enough duct tape to create a comfortable handle. This gives you " adjustable pole" on the cheap. You have short poles for climbing (and possibly the descent) and long poles to help with locomotion on the approach. You will also have a ready supply of duct tape. 7.3 Do I need avalanche probe poles? Alpine probe poles are adjustable length alpine-style poles. They can be assembled together to form a probe for use in recovering an avalanche victim (among other uses). They can also be adjusted to a short length for downhill skiing and long lengths for climbing or pushing on flat terrain. They are a nice "extra" piece of equipment but not essential. Generally, avalanche probe poles are not very good avalanche probes, and you might want to invest in an actual avalanche probe (see safety equipment) if you ski in avalanche terrain frequently. Older avalanche probe poles that used a twist mechanism to adjust the pole length were difficult to use because either they would collapse or get stuck. Therefore, beware of used poles. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 08: Backcountry snowboarding 8. Can I use a snowboard in the backcountry? Sure, but its a bit harder to get around with a snowboard than it is with skis. 8.1 What should I know about snowboards? Basic snowboarding is discussed in the rec.skiing.snowboard FAQ. 8.2 How do I carry a snowboard in the backcountry? There are three methods to carrying a snowboard up a hill that you plan to board. The first method is the least expensive in terms of gear. Use your hands. Long leashing straps are also frequently used. This is easier than using your hands and not expensive, but its also uncomfortable. To make a leash, just get a long piece of medium width webbing and two adjustable buckles. Size it at home and cut off the excess webbing. Finally, the most comfortable and most expensive option is to purchase a pack that can carry your board. Many manufacturers are offering packs that have an exterior pocket specifically designed for a board. 8.3 What are split boards? A recent addition to the spectrum of snowboarding equipment are split boards. A split board is a snowboard that has been cut into two separate pieces, and has a simple system that hooks the two pieces together. So for uphill travel, you use one piece of the board on each foot, and a pair of climbing skins (see Section 9.1). For downhill travel, the pieces of the board are attached to each other to create a full snowboard. The bindings on these boards have the ability to rotate so they are comfortable for both modes of travel. These boards are reasonably stong, but probably not strong enough for really big air, dOOd. 8.4 What can I use to climb? The most common way snowboarders climb a hill to board is to is simply to walk up in their boots by kicking steps in the snow. Should you choose this method, please do not walk in the skiers skin track. Other options include lightweight snowshoes and cutoff skis with skins. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 09: Supplementary backcountry skiing equipment 9. What else do I need? 9.1 How do I get uphill? 9.1.1 What are climbing skins (or skins)? Climbing skins are long textured pieces of fabric that are attached to the bottom of the skis and provide enough friction for a skier to climb rather steep hills. Once upon a time, skins were actually made from seal pelts (thus the name), but now they are made from mohair or nylon. The fabrics have a dense mat of directional "fur" that prevents the skier from slipping backwards but still slide forward. Using skins, you can walk up amazingly steep trails. Skins are attached to skis by two different systems. The first system is a mechanical system of straps. The second system is a special type of glue where the ski-side of the skin is coated with an adhesive which sticks to the base of the ski. The mechanical system is relatively carefree, but the straps interfere with ski edges, and it does not climb as well as the glue system. The glue system requires the ski base to be fairly clean, dry and free of sticky wax. The tip of the skin has a loop which goes over the ski tip; usually there is no attachment at the tail, just the glue, but you can buy "tail-fix " kits which provide a hook for the back end of the skin. (Duct tape works in a pinch.) Use and care: Keep the glue as clean as possible, and avoid dropping the glue side onto snow. Keep your skins near your body so they stay warm on ski runs. They will stick better. Use skin wax to keep your skins from absorbing water. To fold skins: Remove one skin at a time. Grab the tip in one hand and the tail in the other. Stick the exposed glue near the tip to the glue side of the tail. With one hand, hold the two pieces together, and slide your other hand down the length of the skin sticking the bottom half to the top half of the skin. Hints: Air dry skins between uses. Don't let your skins get overheated in your car. Use plastic strips on the glue side of your skins in the summer rather than sticking them together. Make sure your skins are in good condition prior to the trip. Remove/reapply skin glue if necessary. Take spray-on skin glue on the trip in case reapplication becomes necessary. If your skins don't stick well, use duct tape. Skins may be critical to your safety. Take good care of them. To recoat skins with glue: Lay skin flat on a firm surface with glue side up. Lay strips of brown paper bags on top of the skins. Run a hot iron (cotton setting) over the paper, this removes most of the glue. Pull paper bag strips off while still warm. Using an old putty knife, scrape way any glue that is left. Clean the putty knife. Apply a thin, even and covering coat of glue with the putty knife to the clean skins. Allow the skins/glue to dry at least 24 hours. Do your best to keep the glue off the fur. Or pay your local shop or Ascension Enterprises in Ridgeway Colorado to do it for you (preferred). 9.1.2 Should I use waxes? Waxes are used more by overland touring skiers than by downhill skiers because waxes are most effective for shorter climbs where the hill is not very steep. When it works well, waxes are much more convenient than skins. This includes using wax for mountain skiing too. There are two schools of thought on waxing: some people use a glide wax such as Maxiglide on the tips and tails, and kick wax in the kick pocket (under the foot); others use a colder kick wax (which functions as a glide wax) on the tips and tails, and the temperature- indicated kick wax in the kick pocket. Many people suggest beginning with a "two (or three) wax system". These use two hard (solid) waxes and one klister (gooey liquid) wax. The hard waxes are for new snow -- one for cold/dry snow and one for warmer/wet snow. The klister is for old snow or snow that has thawed and refrozen. The next step up is with a hard wax system that uses a color-coded progression of waxes that correspond to the snow temperature. 9.1.3 Are the any other alternatives? You can purchase skis with fish scaled bottoms. These are great when they work, but unfortunately they don't work well on steep slopes and in many snow conditions. Still they are an excellent "hassle free" alternative for overland skiing in relatively flat terrain. There are some skiers that use a router to put very deep fish scales into their skis. With a router and a sharp bit create about 25 cm of scales. On the hill, these scales allow you to climb slowly but steadily, but the require a low angle climbing track. Finally a strong piece of cord can be tied around the ski to help with climbing. The idea is to take a long piece cord (about 10 meters if memory serves me well) and fold it in half. Loop the cord over the tip and tie it in place. Then alternating on the bottom and top, tie a square knot cord for at least half the length of the ski. This isn't something you would want to do for a lot of up and down skiing, but it works in a pinch. Keep this in mind if a skin fails too. 9.2 Is there safety equipment that I need? See also the hazards section of this FAQ. 9.2.1 Do I need the 10 essentials? It makes sense to have some extra clothes, extra food a small first aid kit, a map and compass, a knife, some matches and firestarter, a whistle, a mirror and maybe a few other basic things for safety. See any book on hiking for good lists on safety equipment. 9.2.2 Do I need a shovel? YES. When you are skiing in avalanche terrain, you must always carry a sturdy snow shovel. If a member of your party is buried, a shovel is needed to dig them out (skis, boards, gloves, poles, packs, etc don't work). Lightweight shovels are available from many manufacturers and they are inexpensive. So buy one. Shovels are made of aluminum or plastic. Both are adequate, but many people would prefer that you to have an aluminum shovel. A persistent and untrue rumor is that metal shovels can interfere with beacon signals. See for the test . 9.2.3 And how about those beacons? When you are skiing in avalanche terrain, you should also carry an avalanche beacon. These are radio based devices that transmit and receive a radio signal. This radio signal is used to locate buried avalanche victims. The internationally accepted frequency for avalanche beacons is 457 kHz. Older North American beacons operated at a different frequency (2275 Hz) and should be retired. For this reason, you should not buy a used beacon unless you are sure that its frequency is 457 kHz. Beacons retail for about $250 US (1997). They are expensive, but you've got to have one if you want to decrease the risk to get killed by an avalanche. JUST HAVING A BEACON IS NOT ENOUGH TO ENSURE YOUR SURVIVAL. TO SUCCESSFULLY USE ONE REQUIRES BASIC INSTRUCTION AND LOTS OF PRACTICE. Beacon use and practice is part of the curriculum of every avalanche class, so take one. 9.3 What should I wear? You should think of backcountry skiing as a full-on aerobic sport that is conducted in a cold climate. You will be very warm (and possible sweaty) when you are going uphill, and unless you put on additional clothes, you will get cold if you stop for very long. Therefore, it is important that your clothes be as versatile as possible, and this can only be accomplished by layering your garments. Most manufacturers of high quality outdoor clothing recommend that you have 3 basic layers, a inner layer that wicks away perspiration, a middle insulating layer and a outer shell layer that keeps the snow and wind out. This system works well, but there seems to be a nearly infinite number of ways that you can accomplish it. For example, the middle insulating layer can be as light as another piece of underwear, or maybe its a pile vest or jacket, or it might even be a down vest or jacket. This is complicated by geography, i.e. what works well in British Columbia is probably far too warm for New Mexico. Because good quality outdoor clothing is expensive, use what you already have at first, and add clothing as you find needs. As a target point, you should dress a bit warmer than you would for track skiing (and have extra, warm garments), and you should dress considerably cooler than for resort skiing. Good things to wear that you might already have include cold weather running clothing, nordic ski clothing, and alpine ski clothing. Avoid using insulated jackets and pants for the outer shell because they are just too warm. Finally, other than wool, avoid most natural fiber clothing (i.e. cotton) because they get wet and cold. It will take some trial and error to find the clothing system that works best for you and the area you ski in. You can learn a lot from watching what other people are wearing. 9.4 What do I need for winter camping? Winter camping with skis is a lot like summer backpacking with a few big exceptions that are the result of the cold temperatures. You should consult books on winter camping before going to get a better picture of the difficulties you may encounter. To get an idea of these difficulties, a few are listed here. o You need to stay warm at night, so either you need a winter sleeping bag, or you need a three season sleeping bag and you need to build a snow shelter (cave or igloo). o You will probably need to melt ALL of the water you are going to drink. Most likely there will not be a supply of liquid water, so plan on melting snow. Bring a stove, a big pot and a lot of fuel. o Keep your essential gear warm at night, i.e. sleep with your water bottles, boot liners, and possibly your fuel container in your sleeping bag. o Eat a lot of food and drink a lot of water. Your internal furnice is working on overtime, and it needs fuel to keep you warm and healthy. 9.5 Using backcountry sleds Sled's can make carrying large loads into the backcountry easier. But beware, they are difficult to control on steep terrain and while traversing. To build your own ski sled, click here. 9.6 What does your checklist look like? Couloir magazine provides an excellent extended checklist. It contains too much stuff for an ordinary day tour, so filter as needed. Personally, for a day tour in the Wasatch, I usually bring the following stuff. o The obvious stuff: - skis - boots - poles - pack o Clothes to wear and extra: - Outerwear: Hooded jacket, pants and gaiters - Warm hat, light brimmed hat, neck gaiter - Warm gloves, light gloves, extra light liners - Mid-weight underwear top and bottom. - Mid-weight socks - Stretch ski pants (good weather days) - Pile vest - down sweater - Sun glasses and goggles o Avalanche related stuff - Shovel - Avalanche beacon, extra batteries - Avalanche probe - Clinometer o Ski related stuff - Skins, spray glue and skin wax - Extra binding cable and parts - Pole basket - Small vice-grips and a sturdy screwdriver - Duct tape o Miscellaneous - First-aide kit - 20 meters 7mm rope - Matches, candle, pocket knife, headlamp, mirror - Space blanket - Suntan lotion, lip balm - 2 liters of water - High energy food for lunch (and an extra orange) My pack is not as light as a lot of people I know, but its not really heavy either. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Section 12: Backcountry skiing bibliography 12. Are there any good books on the subject? 12.1 Skiing technique books o Steve Barnett, Cross Country Downhill and Other Nordic Mountain Skiing Techniques, 3d ed., Globe Pequot Press, 1983. o Vic Bein, Mountain Skiing, The Mountaineers, 1982. o Peter Cliff, Ski Mountaineering, Globe Pequot Press, 1987. o Allen O'Bannon & Mike Clelland, Allen and Mike's Really Cool Backcountry Ski Book, Chockstone Press, 1996, 1st ed. o Lito Tejada-Flores, Backcountry Skiing, Sierra Club Books, 1981. o Paul Parker, Free Heel Skiing, The Mountaineers, 1995. 12.1 Ski mountaineering history books o Lou Dawson, Wild Snow : A Historical Guide to North American Ski Mountaineering, 1997, Hardcover: Amer Alpine Club, ISBN 0930410688, $40. Paperback: The Mountaineers, $24.95, ISBN 0930410815 12.2 Periodicals Periodicals that may interest readers of this FAQ include o Backcountry Magazine 7065 Dover Way Arvada, Co. 80004 303-424-5858 bcskimag@AOL.com o Couloir Magazine P.O Box 2349 Truckee, CA 96160 o CrossCountry Skier Magazine o Powder Magazine 12.3 Internet Locations See the avalanche section of this FAQ for avalanche specific sites o Backcountry Magazine: o Couloir Magazine: o Orwad Village -- Telemark skiing: o Telemarque -- Telemark skiing: o Telemark tips: o Backcountry homepage: o Steep skiing: o Books: 12.4 Some guide books (sorted by location) The Alps o Baud, Les Trois Vallees: Off Piste, Vamos, 1991. o Paul Parker, Grande Traverse & The Mont Blanc Tour, Diadem Books London, 1986 o Labande, Haut Valais Randonnee Ski Guide, Olizane, 1992 (in French) o Labande, West Switzerland Randonnee Ski Guide, Olizane, 1986 (in French) o Roberts, High Level Route: Chamonix, Zermatt, Saas Fee, West Col, 1991 o Steiger, Val D'Isere/ Tignes Off Piste, Vamos Publishing, 1991 (in French with English translation) California o Steve Barnett, The Best Ski Touring in America, Sierra Club Books, 1987. o Douglass, Ski Touring the Eastern High Sierra, Bittersweet Publishing, 1990. o Marcus Libkind, SKI TOURS IN THE SIERRA NEVADA: Volume 1: Lake Tahoe, 2nd edition, Bittersweet Publishing o Marcus Libkind, SKI TOURS IN THE SIERRA NEVADA: Volume 2: Carson Pass, Bear Valley, and Pinecrest, Bittersweet Publishing o Marcus Libkind, SKI TOURS IN THE SIERRA NEVADA: Volume 3: Yosemite, Huntington and Shaver Lakes, Kings Canyon/Sequoia, Bittersweet Publishing o Marcus Libkind, SKI TOURS IN THE SIERRA NEVADA: Volume 4: East of the Sierra, Bittersweet Publishing o Marcus Libkind, Ski Tours in Lassen Volcanic National Park, Bittersweet Publishing, 1990. o John Moynier, Backcountry Skiing in the High Sierra, Chockstone Press, 1992. Canadian Rockies o Chic Scott, Ski Trails in The Canadian Rockies, Rocky Mountain Books, 1992 o Chic Scott, Summits and Icefields: Alpine Ski Tours in the Rockies and Columbia Mountains, Rocky Mountain Books, 1994. Colorado o Louis W. Dawson, Colorado High Routes, The Mountaineers, 1985. o Louis W. Dawson, Colorado 10th Mountain Trails, Who Press, 1991. o Brian Linz, Colorado Hut to Hut, Westcliffe Publishers, 2nd ed. 1995. o Brian Linz, Skiing Colorado's Backcountry: Northern Mountains Trails and Tours, Fulcrum, 1989. Oregon o D Waag, Oregon Descents , Freeheel Press, 1998. New England o David Goodman, Backcountry Skiing Adventures, Classic Ski and Snowboard Tours in Maine and New Hampshire, Appalachian Mountain Club, 1998. o David Goodman, Classic Backcountry Skiing in New England, Appalachian Mountain Club, 1991. o Tony Goodwin, Northern Adirondack Ski Tours. Glens Falls, NY: Adirondack Mountain Club Books, 1981. New Mexico o Matthews, Cross-Country Skiing In Northern New Mexico, Acequia Madre Press, 2nd ed., 1993. Utah o Alexis Kelner and David Hanscom, Wasatch Tours, Volume 1 - An Introduction to Ski Touring in the Wasatch Mountains, Wasatch Tours Publishing, 1993. o David Hanscom and Alexis Kelner, Wasatch Tours, Volume 2 - Intermediate and Advanced Ski Tours in the Northern Wasatch Mountains, Wasatch Tours Publishing, 1995. o Alexis Kelner and David Hanscom, Wasatch Tours, Volume 3 - Intermediate and Advanced Ski Tours in the Southern Wasatch Mountains, Wasatch Tours Publishing, 1998. o Andrew McLean, The Chuting Gallery, A guide to steep skiing in the Wasatch Mountains, Paw Prince Press, 1998 Washington o Rainer Burgdorfer, Backcountry Skiing in Washington's Cascades, The Mountaineers, 1986. o John Baldwin, Exploring the Coast Mountains on Skis, Second Edition, 1994. ISBN 0-9691550-1-8. $19.95. Self published, available from the author at 3612 Pt. Grey Road, Vancouver BC V6R 1A9 or in some bookstores. o Tom Kirkendall and Vicky Spring, Cross-Country Ski Tours: Washington's North Cascades, second edition, 1996, The Mountaineers ($14.95 paperbound) ISBN 0-89886-483-6 o Tom Kirkendall and Vicky Spring, Cross-Country Ski Tours: Washington's South Cascades & Olympics, 2nd edition, 1995, Mountaineers Books; ISBN: 0898864151 Wyoming o Tom Turiano, Teton Skiing: History and Guide to the Teton Range, Homestead Publishing, 1995. -----------------------------------------------------------------